BOG HEXES

   While looking through a model railroad scenery catalog, I found a "ground cover" mix that would work for this type of terrain.  The company that sells it is called Scenic Express, and that seems to be their "niche" -- not only do they carry other companies' products, but they carry a line of their own.  One of their ground covers is "Swampy Bog Blend" (item number is EX887B), which I decided to give a try!  I've taken a series of photos as I was making these hexes -- kind of a "how to" on making your own bog hexes!  Each picture is shown as a "thumbnail" -- click on the picture to see a 600 x 450 pixel picture.

   1.  The bog hexes use the 1/4" hexes used for streams and/or rivers; the bottom layer will be the "water table" and serve as a base for the bog, while the upper layer will have the lower-level terrain, etc.  Decide how large you want your bog to be, and how it will "interact" with the surrounding terrain.  I decided on a four-hex complex, with one edge attaching to a stream hex.  I drew in my stream hex first (choosing a curved stream), but did not cut the stream at this point.  Flip the hexes over and mark them with a marker (I use a Sharpie), indicating which hexes connect where.  These markings will be hidden when you glue the layers together -- they're only there for your help!

      Then lay out a matching lower level, and mark those hexes on their bottoms.  These hexes will be the base for your bog.  (See Fig. 1)

  Fig. 1

   2.  While browsing through the "discontinued items" at a local craft store, I found a woodburning pen set (with four different tips) for $9.  While I don't plan to do any woodburning, I thought this would be an excellent way to "carve" styrofoam used in terrain making!  I would imagine that you could do this with any soldering iron or hot foam cutter.  You could probably also use a knife, gouges, etc. -- but this way was (a) quick and (b) left little mess to clean up.

      Working in a well-ventilated area (important!), use the woodburning pen to carve out the areas where you want the lower-level features of the bog to appear.  In some places, completely "burn through" the hexes -- this is where the "water" will appear.  (See Fig. 2.  Note that the pattern is "reversed" from Fig. 1 -- that's because you're looking at the bottom of the hexes.  When "flipped over", they will match the pattern of the tops!)

  Fig. 2

   3.  Using the top layer as patterns, mark where the "water" will appear on the bottom layer.  Paint this area with your blue paint, making sure that all the "holes" will show blue paint and not white styrofoam!  Set aside to dry.  If you want a glossy surface, coat the dried blue paint with a clear gloss finish, such as Future floor wax.  (See Note 1 in River Hexes for more details.)

   4.  Paint the top layer with the tan / brown / whatever color you use for your terrain hexes.  Be sure to get the paint in all the little nooks and crannies left from your woodburning pen!  Set aside to dry.

   5.  Mix a dark brown wash, and paint it over the lower level features of the top level; this will give the hex a lot of "depth".  (See Fig. 3)  Set aside to dry.

  Fig. 3

   6.  Now mix a dark green wash -- this will simulate the "algae" that is found around bogs.  Work this around the lowest levels of the top level, especially around the areas where the water will appear.  (See Fig. 4.)  Set aside to dry.

  Fig. 4

   7.   Using Elmer's white glue, glue the top layers to the bottom layers.  When dry, paint the hex edges with the green you use for all your other hexes.  (See Fig. 5.)  Set aside to dry.

  Fig. 5

   8.  Paint the uppermost levels of the hexes -- the flat surfaces you didn't "texture" with your woodburning pen -- with Elmer's white glue.  Apply grass to these areas.  Set aside to dry.  (Don't forget to clean the glue out of your paintbrush when you're done!)

   9.  Now it's time to add the "Swampy Bog Blend".  Paint the areas where you want vegetation to appear with Elmer's white glue.  Don't be afraid to let a little white glue run out onto the water's surface.  In fact, some of the "burning" mentioned above (in Step 2) well curl up the edges in places, and the top layer will not lie completely flat on the bottom layer -- you can "blend in" this edge with vegetation.  It is perfectly acceptable to leave some of your "washed" areas showing -- in fact, it adds more "visual texture" to the hex!  Sprinkle on the "blend"... shake off the excess... repeat as necessary until you have the coverage you desire.  (See Fig. 6)  Set aside to dry.

   Fig. 6

   10.  Add other foliage, bushes, etc. as needed to blend the bog into the surrounding terrain, using your favorite ground foam, trees, etc.

      I used a variety of materials here, including one that is (most likely) "out of scale" -- I used Woodland Scenic's FG174 Medium Green Field Grass to simulate tall vegetation growing at water's edge.  Using the instructions on the package, I pulled out a small amount -- about the size of a #1 or #2 paintbrush's bristles; then with one end slightly irregular in length, I cut the "clump" of field grass in approximately 1/2" lengths.  Dip the cut end in a small puddle of Elmer's white glue, then carefully place the field grass in position.  If you don't get them quite as upright as you want, use the tip of a #11 knife or a dental pick or what-have-you to gently prod the "clump" into the position you want.  Let dry thoroughly!  While this vegetation is most likely too tall for 1:285 scale, I find the visual effect is well worth the effort -- the hex now really looks like a swamp or bog hex!  (See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8)

      At this point, I decided not to add trees...  For now, I was very pleased with the overall effect and decided to "leave well enough alone".  I may later go back and add trees...  or I may not!

   Fig. 7 (left)   /   Fig. 8 (right)  

   11.  Using the water/glue mix described on its own page, soak the scenery with the mix -- as it dries, it will bond the scenic elements together.  Set aside to dry.

   12.  If any of the water/glue mix flowed onto the "water" surfaces, it will have dried with a matte finish.  Re-coat those areas with Future floor wax (or your gloss medium of choice).

   That's it -- your bog hexes are now ready for the gaming table!  (See Fig. 9 - 11)

   Fig. 9 -- please compare with Fig. 2, above!

   I almost said "That's all there is to it" -- which might be a little bit of an understatement.  Yes, these hexes are much more complex to make than simple flat hexes.  But when you take them one step at a time -- using patience to not rush things, let paint and glue dry thoroughly, etc. -- it's really not difficult at all to make a rather complex finished product.  And I think it's the hexes you spend more time and effort on that really draws one's attention to the gaming table.  Compare a simple peanut butter and jelly sandwich to a full dinner at a fancy restaurant... see which one is more satisfying!  Yes, the latter is more time-consuming to prepare (and also more expensive) -- but it's those "specials" that stick in the mind, not the simple everyday items!

   Fig. 10 (left) / Fig. 11 (right)  

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