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ROAD HEXES

 

road_01.jpg (44688 bytes) A road runs along a forested area.  I used Woodland Scenic's B75 Fine Gray Ballast to "pave" my roadway.

 

   1.  GHQ's instructions show using a #11 blade to cut the ditches -- their video demonstrates this quite well!  However, I use a somewhat different method...  I use a #17 "chisel" blade to cut in my ditches, making a series of small cuts perpendicular to the roadway, instead of the long, "slicing" cut shown in the video.  I make my cuts at a slight angle - about 20° or so - using a "straight-in" push.  I then slide the blade back-and-forth slightly to cut a little deeper.  I always cut the road side first, then the non-road side.  And I do not cut all the way through to the other cut.  After cutting almost all the way through, I "pinch" a bit of the cut styrofoam and pull it out.  Once started, I use a combination of "pinch" and "gouge", using a fingernail, to tear out the rest of the ditch.  This uneven surface seems to work well for that rough look.

 

   2.  I also use a dark brown "wash" to bring out the depth of the ditch, rather than the black wash that GHQ suggests.  In my opinion, the dark brown "wash" looks more like dirt than the black wash.

 

   3.  Another thing I do differently -- and this is totally by my choice -- I use very fine model railroad ballast to "pave" my roads.  I realize that the method used by GHQ -- simulating an unpaved, "rutted" dirt road -- is probably more "realistic" for many battlefields.  But I just like the look of dark gray gravel "paving" my roads!  After the dark brown wash has been applied to the ditches (and allowed to thoroughly dry), I apply a fine coat of Elmer's White Glue to the road surface.  I use a drop or two of water mixed in with my (old, cheap) paintbrush to spread the glue evenly over the road surface.  Then I sprinkle on the ballast / gravel onto the glue mixture.  Then turn the hex over and lightly tap the bottom of the hex to shake off excess ballast / gravel.  (Do this step over the container you store your ballast / gravel in -- that way you don't waste any of it!)  Allow the hex to thoroughly dry; then use the water/glue mix tip (mentioned on its own page) and soak the road surface with it.  Again, allow to thoroughly dry -- your road will now be bonded to the hex, and you can proceed with your other scenicing efforts on the hex.

 

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